Excerpted from article published Thursday, June 17, 1999
Hungry up north

Jeremy Iggers / Star Tribune

Paul Bunyan definitely left his mark on gastronomy in Minnesota's lake country. If the North Woods lumberjack with the legendary appetite returned to his old stomping grounds today, all he would have to look for are the four magical letters that capture the essence of north country dining: A.Y.C.E., short for all you can eat.

Finding more refined dining is a little like morel hunting -- there are some memorable meals out there, but you have to know where to look. With a little help from readers, I found some fine food in some unexpected locations.

Menu's not lost  

A couple of callers enthusiastically recommended Lost Lake Lodge on the Gull Lake Narrows near Nisswa. "Their food is absolutely amazing," one caller promised. "They make everything from scratch, and grind their own flour." It's all true.

Chef Kieran Moore's four nightly specials typically include fish, poultry, a vegetarian dish and a red meat entree, all prepared simply but with a gourmet flair. When I visited, the offerings included a light and savory eggplant cheesecake; a French country chicken, marinated in olive oil, garlic, parsley, basil, rosemary and cooked outdoors on a charcoal grill; a top sirloin with a Gorgonzola sauce; and fillet of sole sautéed with a white wine, clam juice and oregano sauce.

The $23.50 fixed price (total $28.75) including service charge and tax) includes choice of salad (or sometimes a cold soup), entree, dessert and nonalcoholic beverage. The desserts also vary nightly but can include anything from a homemade apple pie to strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier and served with a triple cream custard.

The first seating at Lost Lake Lodge is reserved mainly for guests at the resort, but visitors are welcome, by reservation only, for the second seating. The resort's programming emphasizes environmental awareness, and the local wildlife seem to appreciate the Lodge's attitude; on my recent visits, I have spotted hummingbirds, goldfinches, chipmunks and a turtle laying her eggs. A photo posted in the lodge documents a visit a few years ago by a black bear.

The Lodge has a flour mill on the premises, used to grind the flour for the excellent homemade breads and pastries.